Sanlúcar: horse races and manzanilla

At the mouth of the Guadalquivir, facing Doñana, Sanlúcar de Barrameda brings together three unique things: horses racing along the shore, manzanilla and the best prawns.

Updated 5 sources cited

Key points

  • The Sanlúcar horse races have been run on the shore of the Guadalquivir since 1845 and are a Festival of International Tourist Interest.
  • They take place in August, in two three-day meetings, at low tide with the sunset as a backdrop.
  • Manzanilla is Sanlúcar’s fino: it can only be aged in this town, which has its own designation of origin.
  • Boats leave from Bajo de Guía to cross the river to Doñana National Park.

The areas of the province of Cádiz

Atlantic Ocean Mediterranean Strait of Gibraltar · Morocco Cádiz San Fernando Puerto Real El Puerto de Sta. María Rota Jerez Sanlúcar Chiclana Conil Vejer El Palmar Caños de Meca Barbate Zahara de los Atunes Bolonia Tarifa Algeciras Sotogrande Castellar Arcos Ubrique Grazalema Zahara de la Sierra Setenil Olvera Medina Sidonia
Cádiz cityBay of CádizJerezSanlúcarAtlantic coastCampo de GibraltarSierra de Cádiz Simplified map, not to scale. Outline: open data from the click_that_hood project.

Horse racing on the beach

Every summer, when the tide goes out, the beaches of Sanlúcar become a racecourse several kilometres long. The races are documented since 1845 and are considered among the oldest in Spain. Thoroughbreds and professional jockeys compete before thousands of people spread along the shore, while children set up their own “betting booths” with cardboard boxes.

  • WhenTwo meetings in August; dates depend on the tides.
  • What timeIn the evening, at low tide and sunset.
  • PriceFree from the beach; paid boxes for those who want them.
  • Best spotNear the finishing line, on Bajo de Guía beach.

Manzanilla

Manzanilla is made like fino, from palomino grapes aged biologically under flor, but in the bodegas of Sanlúcar. The humidity from the sea and the mouth of the Guadalquivir keeps the flor thick and alive all year, giving an even paler, lighter wine with a characteristic salty touch. That is why it has its own designation of origin: Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

WineWhere it is agedCharacter
ManzanillaOnly in Sanlúcar de BarramedaVery pale, light and salty
Manzanilla pasadaSanlúcar, with longer ageingMore intense, with nutty notes
FinoJerez and El Puerto de Santa MaríaDry, fuller, with almond notes

Bajo de Guía and the prawns

The old fishermen’s quarter of Bajo de Guía is now a row of restaurants facing the river. Order Sanlúcar prawns, shrimp fritters, fried sole or fish stews, always with a glass of manzanilla. At dusk, the sun sets over the pine woods of Doñana across the water.

What to see in Sanlúcar

  • Santiago Castle15th-century fortress overlooking the upper town and the bodegas.
  • Orleans-Borbón PalaceNeo-Mudéjar palace, now the town hall, with gardens.
  • DoñanaBoat trips on the Guadalquivir and 4x4 tours of the national park.
  • First voyage around the worldMagellan and Elcano’s expedition left Sanlúcar in 1519 and returned there in 1522.

Keep going

Combine Sanlúcar with Jerez and El Puerto de Santa María. In August, check the festival calendar: the races coincide with summer fiestas all along the coast.

Frequently asked questions

When are the Sanlúcar horse races?

In August, in two three-day meetings, at sunset and low tide. Dates depend on the tides and are published every year by the Racing Society.

Are the races free?

Yes, you can watch from the beach for free. There are paid boxes and areas with service for those who want them.

What is the difference between fino and manzanilla?

Both are aged biologically under flor, but manzanilla can only be aged in Sanlúcar, where the humidity from the sea and the river keeps a thicker flor all year and gives a lighter, saltier wine.

Sources

  1. Sanlúcar de Barrameda Horse Racing Society
  2. Regulatory Council of the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry and Manzanilla-Sanlúcar D.O.
  3. Wikipedia. Carreras de caballos de Sanlúcar (in Spanish)
  4. Wikipedia. Manzanilla (wine) (in Spanish)
  5. Wikipedia. Doñana National Park