Atlantic coast: from Chiclana to Zahara de los Atunes
Sixty kilometres of sandy beaches, cliffs, pine woods and white towns between Sancti Petri and Zahara de los Atunes: the brightest stretch of the Costa de la Luz.
Key points
- Between Sancti Petri and Zahara de los Atunes lie some of the widest and best-preserved beaches in Spain.
- Vejer de la Frontera is the coast’s white town par excellence, with a protected historic centre.
- La Breña y Marismas del Barbate Natural Park protects cliffs, a large pine forest and the Tajo watchtower.
- Barbate, Zahara and Conil live from the almadraba, the age-old trap fishing of bluefin tuna.
The areas of the province of Cádiz
Chiclana and Sancti Petri
Chiclana de la Frontera has a white old town with its own wine bodegas and, a few kilometres away, La Barrosa beach: eight kilometres of fine sand with resorts, large hotels and golf courses. At its northern end, the fishing village of Sancti Petri faces the islet and its castle, where tradition places the temple of Gaditan Hercules.
Conil de la Frontera
Conil is a fishing town of white streets around the Guzmán Tower, with Los Bateles beach at the foot of the old town and coves such as La Fontanilla, Fuente del Gallo and El Roqueo to the north. In summer it is one of the liveliest places on the coast; in spring it holds its tuna route.
Vejer de la Frontera
Perched on a hill eight kilometres from the sea, Vejer keeps its walls, arches, castle, the church of the Divino Salvador and a maze of whitewashed streets with Moorish roots. It is one of the most photographed towns in Andalusia and has excellent restaurants; from its viewpoints you can see the coast and, on clear days, Africa.
El Palmar and Los Caños de Meca
El Palmar beach, in Vejer, is one of the longest unspoilt beaches in the province and its surfing mecca. Further south, Los Caños de Meca (Barbate) mixes coves, cliffs and a bohemian vibe next to the Trafalgar lighthouse, facing the cape where the 1805 battle was fought.
Barbate
Barbate is the province’s great tuna port. Its fish market, canneries and bars honour almadraba bluefin tuna, and its seafront leads into La Breña Natural Park, with a clifftop path to the Tajo tower, a hundred metres above the sea.
Zahara de los Atunes
Small and low-rise, Zahara de los Atunes has one of the most beautiful beaches on the coast: golden sand, clear water and the Sierra de la Plata behind. The ruins of the Palacio de las Pilas, built by the Dukes of Medina Sidonia, recall the town’s tuna-fishing past.
The almadraba
The almadraba is a maze of nets set close to the shore to catch the bluefin tuna that swim from the Atlantic into the Mediterranean to spawn in spring. It dates back to the Phoenicians and Romans, and today four almadrabas in Cádiz (Conil, Barbate, Zahara and Tarifa) keep the tradition alive under catch quotas.
Levante and poniente
The wind rules this coast. With levante (easterly, dry and gusty) sand flies on south-facing beaches; with poniente (westerly, humid) the sea is cooler but the beach is more pleasant. Check the forecast before choosing a beach.
More beaches
The full list, with tips depending on the wind, is in beaches of the province of Cádiz. Heading south you reach Tarifa and Bolonia.
Frequently asked questions
Which town on the Costa de la Luz is best to stay in?
It depends: Conil and Zahara for beach and atmosphere; Vejer to sleep in a white hilltop town; Chiclana for large hotels and golf; El Palmar and Los Caños for surfing and a laid-back vibe.
What is the levante?
The strong easterly wind that blows through the Strait and along the Cádiz coast. With levante, beaches facing west and north (such as La Caleta or La Barrosa) are usually more sheltered; with poniente, Tarifa is calmer.
When is the almadraba?
In spring, when bluefin tuna pass into the Mediterranean to spawn (roughly April to June). Barbate, Zahara and Conil then hold their tuna food routes.